The Uttarayani Mela: Celebrating Makar Sankranti in Uttarakhand

The Uttarayani Mela, held annually in the second week of January, is a vibrant celebration marking Makar Sankranti, a major Hindu festival that signals the sun’s transition from the southern hemisphere to the northern hemisphere. This grand fair takes place in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand, notably in Bageshwar, Rani Bag, and Hanseshwari, with Bageshwar hosting the most significant festivities.

A Sacred and Festive Venue

The heart of the Uttarayani Mela is the sacred grounds of the Bagnath Temple, located along the banks of the Saryu River in Bageshwar. This week-long fair transforms the area into a bustling hub of activity. Devotees believe that bathing in the holy Saryu River during this auspicious period can purify both the body and the soul. The fair’s commencement coincides with the sun’s entry into the northern hemisphere, a moment of spiritual significance for many.

Cultural Extravaganza

One of the most captivating aspects of the Uttarayani Mela is its rich cultural display. The festival showcases traditional performances by local artists who sing folk songs such as Jhora, Chanchari, and Baira. These vibrant performances, often accompanied by lively dance, offer a glimpse into the cultural heritage of the Kumaon region. Attendees also enjoy performances by cultural groups from neighboring districts, adding to the festival’s diverse and colorful atmosphere.

Shopping and Local Crafts

The fair is also a shopper’s paradise, featuring a wide array of local produce and crafts. Visitors can purchase iron and copper utensils, bamboo crafts, baskets, barrels, mats, mattresses, carpets, blankets, herbs, and spices. These items reflect the traditional craftsmanship of the region and offer a unique shopping experience for both locals and tourists.

Historical and Cultural Significance

The Uttarayani Mela has historical roots dating back to the Chand dynasty, which played a crucial role in shaping the fair’s traditions. Over the years, the festival has also witnessed significant political and social movements. Notably, during India’s freedom struggle, the mela served as a platform for activists, including Pandit Badri Datt Pandey, who was known as ‘Kumaon Kesari.’ In 1921, Pandey and other rebels utilized the festival to voice their opposition to colonial rule.

The Black Crow Festival

A unique aspect of the celebrations is the Ghughutia or Black Crow festival, which occurs during Uttarayani. On this day, children make sweets from a mixture of flour and jaggery, deep-fried in ghee and shaped into various forms like drums and pomegranates. Wearing these sweet garlands, children sing traditional songs to attract crows and other migratory birds. The song, which goes:

“Black, black, forgotten have come, Eat rice and flour. This crow, bring me gold, This crow, bring me a gold plate.”

reflects the hope for prosperity and a bountiful future as they welcome the returning migratory birds.

The Uttarayani Mela is more than just a fair; it is a celebration of cultural heritage, spiritual significance, and communal joy. From the sacred rituals at the Saryu River to the lively folk performances and vibrant market stalls, the festival captures the essence of Kumaon’s traditions and welcomes the sun’s northward journey with enthusiasm and reverence.